We Loved the Palio in Siena, Italy
Il Palio di Siena takes place around the perimeter of the Piazza del Campo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This trip report was contributed by Debbie Tucker of Del Mar, California.
On Friday afternoon, August 16, 2013, my husband and I were on a private balcony above the Piazza del Campo in Siena, Italy, sipping Prosecco as a crowd of 32,000 filled the square. We were part of a small group of Americans who joined Il Campo Cucina’s “Palio Ultimate Tuscan Adventure” to experience the Palio di Siena, known as “The Race of the Soul.” Awaiting the start of the race in style, up above the crowd, we were in our own little slice of heaven served up by Marlane Miriello, creator and owner of Il Campo Cucina, a culinary adventure program.
In Siena, the Il Campo Cucina group stayed in a stunning and spacious third story apartment where a balcony offered panoramic views of the race course.
From the moment we were picked up in Florence, Marlane ignited a magical itinerary starting with a four-course seafood lunch under a white tent with a breathtaking view of the Tuscan landscape. Il Bel Canto, a beautifully restored, eco-sustainable B&B just a 10-minute walk from the picturesque village of Radicondoli, was our home base for a week that included incredibly delicious meals and wines, cooking lessons from Chef Luana Vaghegini and Michelin-rated chef Francesco Costagli, and wine, olive oil and Tuscan product tastings. There was time to explore the Tuscan hills, either cycling or hiking, in addition to photography field trips, horseback riding, pool time and fabulous massages by masseuse Cristina Martini. All of this led up to the pezzo forte (piece de resistance) – our three days of complete immersion in all of the pageantry and celebration of the exhilarating Palio di Siena.
Flags of one of the contrada di Siena.
The race itself consists of ten jockeys wearing the medieval costumes of their Siena contrada (neighborhood) riding bareback around the perimeter of the Piazza del Campo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The entire race runs for three laps and lasts all of 75 seconds but it’s the culmination of an event that lasts all year long consisting of ongoing rivalry and competition between the contrade.
Marlane spent months in preparation, collaborating with two remarkable women in Siena. Laura Nicolelli Fulgenzi, an event planner, arranged our meals and entertainment, and Federica Fiscaletti, a licensed Siena tour guide, guided us through the events of the Palio and through the streets of the city, explaining the history, culture and workings of the Palio. These three dream weavers left no stone unturned in seeing that our experience was as good (and authentic) as it gets. Our group was privy to a private guided tour of the Montone Contrada Museum, a viewing of the Corteo Dei Ceri (candlelight procession to the Duomo before the race), guests at a Contrada Dinner (eat, drink, sing, shout and cry!) and an exquisite aperitivo followed by an elegant buffet dinner in the Tower overlooking the entire Piazza del Campo where we viewed the Prova (trial run of the Palio race).
Fast and furious Palio di Siena action.
Our base for our days in Siena was a stunning and spacious third story apartment with an expansive balcony offering panoramic views of the race course. Overlooking the thrilling San Martino Curve, this coveted spot on the Piazza del Campo is the most challenging part of the track and where the outcome of the Palio is frequently decided. To describe the setting as exhilarating is to put it mildly. From our private balcony we watched close-up every moment of the exquisite pageantry of the Palio – the Prova General (a dress rehearsal for the actual race), the Renaissance Processione, a spectacular event which includes flag waivers in medieval costumes and finally the Palio race itself. The prized location of our palazzo allowed each of us to capture and savor every special detail that continually unfolded before our eyes.
A catered dinner a The Tower.
The Siena air oozed energy and passion from these spirited Italians so devoted to their contrada, their horse and the Palio itself. The lyrical chanting of each contrada as they proudly marched with their horse through the crowded streets still resonates in my mind. At one point during the pre-race festivities our chef, Simone Romano of acclaimed Porrione Ristorante, was seen privately praying for his contrada (L’Onda, The Wave), which, as destino would have it, won the race. To personally see the elation and tears in this Italian’s eyes was to witness the commitment and passion to a tradition that is like no other.
Fortunately, for us who yearn to return again and for anyone who wants to experience this “trip of a lifetime,” Marlane has included the Palio Ultimate Tuscan Adventure on the 2014 calendar of Il Campo Cucina. Based on the comments of those who participated in this incredible week, it will fill up in very short order. Memories like this don’t come along often, if ever. I just may have to click the heels of my little red slippers next year and keep repeating “there’s no place like the Palio di Siena.”
The Il Campo group enjoyed a traditional Contrada dinner.
Category: Italy
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Good article. It made me want to go to Italy.
Debbie,
An incredible article. Your prose paints a vivid picture and makes you feel as though you are there, and wanting to be there. You are an excellent writer.
Paul