The Dolomites – Hiking Italy Inn-to-Inn
The Dolomites in Italy are one of the world’s great hiking destinations.
This Dolomites trip report was contributed by Hermann Gucinski from North Carolina in the U.S.
“Oh my God,” came out of my mouth when I reached the top of the pass Forcella Rondoi at 7,200 feet.
My wife, a few steps behind me, knew immediately what it meant. “Let’s get on with it,” she said, starting down the nearly non-existent trail with a vertiginous drop on one side and nothing to grab hold of on the other. My mouth went dry, but I set off after her. We had been warned! The guide talked at length about turning back at the least misgiving about going on.
That moment of fear was well repaid by the spectacular nature of the Dolomites, not just here, but every step of our 6-day hiking journey with On Foot Holidays. The whole trip was a grand experience where sheer awe replaces any fear you might feel.
Abutting the Austrian border, South Tyrol was ceded to Italy in reparation for World War I. To this day, German (or Austrian) is spoken here as well as Italian – and for us, English, too.
San Candido is one of the picturesque spots passed by those walking in the Dolomites.
Day One in the Dolomites
Our first hike departed from the tiny town of San Candido (Tyrolean name “Innichen”), where we stayed in a 4-star inn for two nights. This Dolomites hike can only be described in superlatives. The town is dwarfed by the mountains nearby, and the climb was a way of breaking the ice in a romantic forest setting. We passed by an old all-wood chapel; the route was alternated with meadows and a tiny town that appeared magically right at lunch-time.
On Foot Holidays arranges lodging for their guests in authentic
hotels and inns along walking routes in remote areas of Europe.
Our hotel and the staff were great, On Foot Holidays arranges stays in local hotels and authentic inns to experience local hospitality, and our next stop was a hut high up in the mountain. We set out to our first “Rifugio” (Italian name for shelter). Despite the fact that it was very basic – in the sense that showers served several rooms and we had to take turns – the experience was well compensated by excellent, yet simple rooms and superb meals with new and great company – the other hikers.
The challenging Dolomites pass, the Forcella Rondoi, came the next morning. By the time we rejoined other hikers on the trail below, we were truly proud of our accomplishment. This included tackling the ups and downs of the remaining miles to the town of Misurina. Here, a beautiful lake is watched over by a massive hotel which, we were told, served as field hospital during that dreadful war.
The highlight of the trip came next day, when we circumnavigated the “Tres Cimes.” These three spires are world-renowned and sought out by hikers, technical climbers, and walkers of all ages. There we found several huts that served lunch or snacks and even milk from herb-fed cows.
Our last hike was nine miles long, 5 1/2 hours of walking, stops not included. At the end, we reached the worldwide known gourmet destination of Cortina d’ Ampezzo.
The Italian Alps – the Dolomites – are breathtakingly beautiful.
From high crags way above us, to broad mountain vistas, and from wooded glens to towns nestled in steep valleys, On Foot’s routes are surrounded by beauty during the whole trip. We enjoyed the magnificent views and amazing stops at little chalets for lunch. In addition, the tour started and ended at truly impressive hotels in great settings. Also, our bodies responded very well to the daily climbs and we felt better every day.
Looking back, the memories are great, and each picture we review recalls neat moments from deep impressions, great new friends, and funny incidents.
You have to try it yourselves to inhale all this deeply.
Hermann Gucinski, PhD, is a scientist, retired from the U. S. Forest Service. He hikes with his wife, and both of them have section-hiked the entire Appalachian and Pacific Crest Trails. The Dolomites experience described here took place in July 2011.
On Foot Holidays is a UK specialist in self-guided walking tours. They offer carefully-designed routes through remote areas of Europe and arrange stays in authentic inns and boutique hotels along the way. On Foot’s staff transfers luggage from place to place, so guests can enjoy a hands-free excursion.
Category: Italy, Walking vacations
Subscribe
If you enjoyed this article, subscribe to receive more just like it.
