Victoria Falls – Best Places to Stay in Livingstone
Sindabezi Lodge, near Victoria Falls, is a great example of authentic luxury lodging.
Victoria Falls – located between the countries of Zambia and Zimbabwe in Africa – is the world’s largest sheet of falling water. It is nearly twice the height of Niagara Falls in North America. In height and width it is rivaled only by Iguazu Falls in South America.
As you might imagine, this notoriety has put Victoria Falls on lots of bucket lists – including mine. Actually, my top priority in Zambia was seeing wildlife, and I did that while staying at the country’s best bush camps: Chiawa Camp and Norman Carr Safaris. Both are fantastic places.
Victoria Falls is located between Zambia and Zimbabwe in Africa.
Then came Victoria Falls. You know by now that I always look for authentic lodging, places that reflect the local culture.
Here I hit the jackpot.
Sindabezi
Sindabezi Island Lodge – located on an island in the Zambezi River – is the exact opposite of a hotel covered in corporate logos. We arrived by boat and were shown to one of five open-sided thatched suites sited on the river.
It was unbelievably quiet and peaceful. Netting enclosed the bed, but the “room” was open on one side providing my husband Richard and me with a 180° view and a priceless sense of connection with the river.
“Elephants sometimes swim over here from Zimbabwe at night, so don’t wander around too much,” our host cautioned. “The good news is that you don’t have to worry about monkeys because they don’t swim well enough to get this far.”
This far? Zimbabwe was only about 100 yards away.
I collapsed into one of the lounge chairs on the wood deck and began locking images in my mind’s eye. Just when I thought it couldn’t be any more beautiful, the sun set turning those images into Technicolor.
Sunset on the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls.
Dinner was served at a candlelit table under which I wiggled my toes in the sand. Over the meal, our guide Raphael said that Zambezi means “how am I going to bathe?” in the language of the indigenous people because there were so many crocs in the river. Under normal circumstances, I might have worried about this, but it was all too beautiful and romantic.
Victoria Falls and Livingstone Island
I was in for a huge cultural shock the next morning when Raphael took us to the Royal Livingston Hotel near Victoria Falls to connect with an excursion to Livingston Island. I felt like I’d been kidnapped from Sindabezi and shipped to Palm Beach, Florida or another tony, warm location where affluent folks spend their days lounging around a pool drinking fancy cocktails. We moved through as quickly as possible.
The Royal Livingstone Hotel was attractive, but didn’t feel the least bit Zambian.
Livingstone Island is one of two islands in the middle of the Zambezi River immediately upstream from Victoria Falls on the Zambian side. Here, we learned the history of Victoria Falls – from ancient times when it was a sacrificial site to the present day and its World Heritage status. We also had an opportunity to jump into Devil’s Pool – a natural pool in the river right before it spills over the falls. Richard – ever the daredevil – jumped (literally) at the chance. Aargh.
Richard, the daredevil, jumping into Devil’s pool at the top of Victoria Falls.
Tongabezi
After a really lovely lunch in a big white tent on Livingstone Island, we did some craft shopping with Raphael. Then he took us to Tongabezi Lodge upstream from Victoria Falls and sister to luxurious Sindabezi. Here we were shown to our very spacious cottage on the river and introduced to our personal valet Febbian.
Another wonderful dinner – this one on a wooden deck – then a great night’s sleep. In the morning, Febbian brought tea at 7am, and we enjoyed it under a cobalt blue sky splashed with clumps of cotton ball clouds. Intermittent bird calls and hippo grumbles rose up from the river.
From my journal: “Oh that life could always be this sweet.”
River cottage #1, Tongabezi.
Authentic vs. could-be-anywhere
One of the things I like about Tongabezi is that it’s designed to blend into the natural landscape. Some rooms are carved into rock faces and balconies blend into the surrounding trees. The camp is scarcely visible from the river, allowing the natural surroundings to appear undisturbed.
The pool at Tongabezi is made from local stone and blends with the environment.
In contrast, Royal Livingstone Hotel appears to have nothing to do with Zambia – in spite of the fact that it’s on the river and close to Victoria Falls. The modern, multi-story property was built in a style I call “ersatz colonial.” The pool, surrounded by a perfect green lawn, would be lovely and feel appropriate in Beverly Hills or, as I said, Palm Beach. By the way, I enjoy both of these destinations; I just don’t want to find them in Africa.
In contrast, Tongabezi and Sindabezi reflect the surrounding culture and environment. They enhance the personal experience of being at Victoria Falls. They are real, untouristy bush camps on the Zambezi River. They’re what authentic luxury travel is all about.
Cheers,
Bathrooms at Sindabezi offer modern conveniences in an au naturel setting.
Category: Zambia
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Wow, Africa has such magnificent landscape and wild to offer… So sad that a huge part of that continent is unreachable because of human beings…