New Zealand North Island Trip Report

New Zealand North Island: Auckland’s scenic west coast is famous for black sand beaches.

This “New Zealand North Island” Trip Report was written by Maya & Mark from San Diego, California. They asked for my help with trip planning last spring when they were headed to New Zealand for the first time. I was happy to oblige, since this is an area I know quite well. They traveled during the last two weeks of May.

Arrival in New Zealand North Island:

In Auckland, Bart and Therese at Ascot Parnell set a very high standard. Their B&B lodgings are a second floor flat with 3 guest rooms (ours was a suite with a bedroom, sitting room, bath) adjoining a common open area with living room and balcony with a sweeping view of the harbor, transitioning into breakfast area and kitchen on the other end.  Bart and Therese’s apartments are on the other side of the elevator landing. By the way, they remembered you fondly and asked that we say hello for them.

Bart & Therese and their two Salukis (Persian greyhounds).

The place is new and elegant in a contemporary European style, no fussiness but perfect attention to detail. Breakfast was gourmet and cooked to order. Bart and Therese performed all the host duties with apparently effortless grace and poise, while at the same time carrying on a fluid conversation on a wide variety of subjects, sometimes in several languages. The Italian word sprezzatura comes to mind.  Oh, and they have two lovely dogs.

Thanks to our former yoga teacher and her husband who now live in Titirangi, we got to see a lot of the city and went out to the beautiful and wild west coast, black sand beaches, and Piha. One night we had dinner at their house, which sits in the middle of a bush worthy of Grimm Brothers – there is a 1000 year old kauri tree in back of the house. We also spent a couple of hours at the Auckland Museum, which was nice but not as impressive as Te Papa in Wellington.

New Zealand North Island, Titirangi: Kauri tress and native
ferns give the bush the look of a Grimm Brothers story.

We spent a relaxing couple of hours in Hamilton gardens on the way to Rotorua.  Rotorua itself is a charming town and Quest apartments were new, modern, clean and comfortable – also very convenient to everything.  We hiked around a couple of geothermal areas (Wai O Tapu and Waimangu – each impressive in its own way) and Rainbow Springs kiwi wildlife park – it was pouring rain when we got there and we were surely the only visitors, but we did get a good look at kiwis and some other birds (kaka, morepork) and tuataras.  Speaking of pouring rain, I also managed to sneak out for a relaxing “shower” massage at the Polynesian Spa.

Driving from Rotorua to Wellington, we had a tour of Hobbiton (very expensive but gorgeous place); explored limestone caves and experienced the spectacle of glowworms in Waitomo; and stopped in Tongariro National Park, but didn’t hike up the volcano due to lack of time. On the way to Waitomo we stopped on a whim at Otorohanga aviary, which turned out to be very lovely and informative.

New Zealand North Island: Hobbiton.

Caves Motor Inn, where we spent the night, was perhaps the only accommodation on our itinerary that was sketchy. It was a pretty dilapidated motor inn, but very close to the caves. In retrospect, the distances weren’t very great so we could’ve stayed in one of the small towns nearby, so I wouldn’t recommend staying there for convenience.

Aside from spectacular scenery, there are always some unanticipated “white space” encounters on the road. The most entertaining sight on the way from Rotorua to Wellington was the “sheep hill.” We had to pull over and watch as the whole slope was undulating like a giant ant hill with (must’ve been hundreds if not thousands) sheep running in neat rows in one direction, herded by several dogs and a couple of shepherds silhouetted up on the crest.

Another notable place we drove through was Tirau, the corrugated capital of NZ.  We unfortunately didn’t stop and spend time there (I think there is a museum), but got to see some amazing corrugated structures even just driving by.

The Waiotapu geothermal area near Rotorua in New Zealand North Island is known for its vivid color.

Yet another roadside attraction was the village of Upokongaro, slightly north of Wanganui. We just stopped at a roadside cafe after a long descent from Tongariro. The café (4 Forty 4 Café) turned out to be a charming place situated in a building dating back to mid-1800s, with a long and interesting history described in pictures, newspaper clips and posters on the walls.

We drove into Wellington just before sunset and got a spectacular view of the city (we generally had very good luck with the weather most days). Booklovers B&B was a perfect place for us to stay – we feel very comfortable in a house piled with books. At the end of every day, it was like coming home; Jane Tolerton shared many interesting insights into the history of the house/neighborhood, Wellington and New Zealand politics.

Our time in Wellington was too short, but we visited Te Papa, rode the cable car, walked back down through the Botanical Gardens, generally meandered through the city and spent one morning at Zealandia Sanctuary (Karori), which was amazing.

Heading back north, we drove into Taupo at sunset on a very clear and beautiful evening. The lake was gorgeous. Our room at Clearwater Motor Lodge was right on the water. We had a very relaxing stay there. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to do the hydroplane tour, because the next day was overcast, then it rained through the night and the second morning was clear but very windy. No matter, we visited another geothermal area (Orakei Korako) and Huka waterfall.

Waimangu geothermal area is near Rotorua in New Zealand North Island.

And onto Maungakawa Views, a farmstay in the Waikato District.  Our room was comfortable and modern, and Alan and Shirley took care of us most completely. Shirley was anxious to assure us upon arrival that there will be scones. I didn’t understand what was the big deal about scones – the ones I’ve tasted here have always been kind of stale and nothing to go out of the way for – until I tasted hers. I’ve secured the recipe, but haven’t attempted them yet.  Not sure my baking skills are up to the challenge.

New Zealand North Island: this farm is near Rotorua.

At the farm we were again lucky with the weather and the scenery was spectacular. Between meals, their son Matthew took us all around on the tractor to observe the daily routine. Mark was pretty handy with helping out, and I hung off the side of the tractor trying not to fall off. It was the most unique experience – last time I was on the farm was at a Soviet kolkhoz. In the afternoon we went with Alan, Matthew, his 7 year old daughter and the dogs for a little tromp through the bush – it turned out to be a pretty steep hike through the most terrific rain forest. It did start raining towards the end – I felt I was in my natural habitat.

North Island is generally sold short by visitors and even natives; and of course I haven’t seen South island, which I hope to, some day.  But we really enjoyed our stay there (how many times did I use words gorgeous and spectacular?). Going off-season had an added benefit of being uncrowded, and most days the weather was very pleasant if you had a couple of layers.

Thank you, Elizabeth, for researching and contacting the accommodations, and putting together such a winning itinerary for our trip, on a very short notice and with all the requirements and restrictions we gave you.

Photo credit: Maya and Mark, San Diego, California; ADAMS / HANSEN STOCK PHOTOS; Bart & Therese, Auckland, New Zealand.

“Rush hour” in New Zealand.

Tags: accommodations, advice, Auckland, Auckland Museum, B&Bs, beaches, geothermal areas, hotels, lodgings, New Zealand, North Island, places to stay, Rotorua, scenery, Te Papa, things to do, tips, travel, trip planning, trip report, vacation, Wellington

Category: New Zealand