Monterey, CA – Wildlife, Great Food & More
Monterey Bay Aquarium monitors marine life in the bay. Credit Randy Wilder.
Monterey is a mixed bag. At first glance, it’s not very exciting. The commercial district is chockablock with the predictable chain stores, and nearby lodging and dining options are also ho-hum.
So why am I writing about this Central California city?
Because the flip side is that Monterey is home to some of the best food, most authentic wildlife experiences, and interesting history in the state. You just have to know where to look – so read on.
The Sardine Factory Restaurant on Cannery Row is a great place to enjoy local seafood.
Authentic Cannery Row -
Cannery Row is a colorful district of about 20 square blocks on the waterfront at the west side of Monterey Bay. From 1915 through the 1950s, this area buzzed with the business of canning sardines. Immigrants from Sicily, Portugal, Japan, and China provided the muscle. However, after WWII the over-fished sardines began to disappear, and by 1962 the industry had collapsed. The region remained in a state of decline until 1968, when Bert Cutino and his partner founded The Sardine Factory Restaurant in an abandoned cannery cafeteria.
Soon, other vacant buildings were repurposed as places to eat and shop. Visitors flocked to the area to see the famous canning street described by John Steinbeck in his novel Cannery Row. More interest was created by Clint Eastwood’s 1970 “Play Misty for Me,” filmed partially in Monterey, including some scenes inside The Sardine Factory.
The restaurant soon developed a large and illustrious following, including Ronald Reagan (loved the abalone bisque) and Governor Schwarzenegger who often flew in for lunch. Leon Panetta, whose office is nearby, is still a frequent guest.
Kayaks provide a good view of marine life on Monterey Bay and Cannery Row buildings.
Tacky Cannery Row -
Unfortunately, Cannery Row is also home to more cutesy tourist shops that you might believe possible. Tee shirts? Sure, but it gets worse. The good news is that I found some really great galleries a block or so away from the touristy section along the waterfront.
The M. P. A. F. Gallery is located in an historic building that was a carriage house in the days of the canneries. Here, the work of the 30 members of the Monterey Peninsula Art Foundation is on display – and for sale.
Nearby, you’ll see some beautiful seascapes at Dick Crispo’s Coastal Painting Gallery. Dick’s work shows the coast in various seasons, times of day, and moods. For an interview with the artist, check out this video.
Sprindrift Inn is the ideal place to stay on Cannery Row in Monterey.
Best Monterey / Cannery Row lodging
I love the Spindrift Inn, where our 4th floor king room came with a padded window bench overlooking Monterey Bay. This perch was ideal for watching the sun rise, gazing at waves rolling up on the beach below, and trying to get my head around the enormity of the bay. All the rooms at this hotel come with fireplaces, complimentary room service breakfast, and a daily hosted wine and cheese reception.
Lovers Point in Pacific Grove is on the “rec trail” that passes through Cannery Row.
Monterey Bay wildlife
After seeing kayakers out on the bay, we rented boats from Adventures By the Sea. The goal was to get a good look at sea otters while keeping an eco-friendly distance. However, they had the annoying habit of ducking under water just as we’d get close enough for a good view. The harbor seals, sea lions, pelicans, gulls, cormorants, and egrets were – thankfully - more cooperative.
It was much easier to view otters at the Monterey Bay Aquarium located on the waterfront at the end of Cannery Row. This renowned facility opened in 1984 on the site of the former Hovden Cannery and attracts more than 2 million visitors a year. Their otter display is wonderful, and I also adore their jellies – so much so that I bookmarked their Jelly Cam on my PC. The multi-story living Kelp Forest exhibit is the centerpiece; Open Shore (turtles, hammerhead sharks, a swarm of sardines and more) is another popular area.
Monterey Bay Aquarium is one of the best in the world.
Living like a local
The Aquarium is on the Monterey Bay Coastal Trail, known locally as “the rec trail.” This scenic walking and biking path follows the former Southern Pacific Railroad line and extends 18 miles from Pacific Grove to Castroville. Signage along the way depicts local historical events. The rec trail is a popular place for running, biking, and walking – with or without a dog.
Flatbread, vino and a water view from Taste of Monterey.
More great Monterey food on Cannery Row
One day we stopped for a “quick lunch” at A Taste of Monterey Wine Market & Bistro. However, it didn’t turn out to be very quick because this place is a treasure-trove of all the wonderful wine, beer, and food (artichokes, brussels sprouts, almonds, salmon, crab) for which Monterey County is famous. Three local craft beers are on tap, and 90 wines made with Monterey County grapes are available by the glass or table flight. Sparkey’s Root Beer from Pacific Grove was great. My artichoke and potato soup was fantastic. The flatbreads were positively divine.
A few FYIs:
- Monterey is located two hours south of San Francisco and five hours north of Los Angeles.
- In spite of the strong Steinbeck / Cannery Row connection, the National Steinbeck Center is in Salinas.
- Book well ahead for lunch or dinner at the Sardine Factory.
- The Cannery Row Company is a great source of information.
- Learn more about Monterey Bay produce at these secret spots.
Enjoy authentic Monterey!
Category: Central California
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